Please check to make sure you have all parts before proceeding. If you are missing any of the components or have any questions about the install, please call our customer support at (909)947-0015 or send us an email at customerservice@sbfilters.com. Installation requires loosening and removing U-Bolt nuts and under axle plates, use extreme care when doing so to ensure the axle remains in place. The vehicle should be parked on a level surface with front and rear wheels chocked. U-Bolts must be retorqued properly and should be rechecked periodically after installation to ensure they are still correctly torqued.
Remove your existing U-Bolt Nuts. Leave your OEM Under Axle/Bottom Plate Installed and hanging on the U-Bolts as it will be re-used in the next step if you are using an Under OEM Bottom Plate on a Ford Super Duty. Remove and replace the OEM Under Axle Plate if you are using our universal Under Axle Plate kits (Part Numbers 101044/101045). Ignore this step if installing a weld on under axle plate and skip to step 2B.
Install the Under Axle Plate over the U-bolts and reinstall the nuts. The large hole extending off the bracket needs to be facing the front of the truck. Torque the nuts in a crossing pattern and in 4 stages as follows. SRW Trucks & Trucks with 5/8" U-Bolts: Stage 1 - 48lb-ft, Stage 2 - 96lb-ft, Stage 3 - 148 lb-ft, Stage 4 - 195 lb.ft. DRW Trucks & Trucks with 3/4" U-Bolts: Stage 1 - 74lb-ft, Stage 2 - 148lb-ft, Stage 3 - 221 lb-ft, Stage 4 - 295 lb-ft. Recheck U-Bolt torque after 500 miles or immediately if you feel or hear any popping. You can install your axle mount logo plates at this step as well with the provided #10-24 Stainless Button screws and serrated flange nuts. The logos should face the rear of the truck. Ignore this step if installing a weld on under axle plate and skip to step 2B.
Remove the rubber bushings and aluminum sleeve from the Rear Bar Mount Hardware kit, Part KP2010-00, and press them into the openings on the under axle mount. Make sure the aluminum tube is slid into the urethane bushings to act as a compression limiter.
Place the driver side frame mount against the frame to find a good spot to mount it. The frame mounts can be installed anywhere between 50" and 84" from the rear axle mount. Ensure there is a similar spot on the passenger side frame mount to install before beginning to drill. The frame mount location should allow the bar to freely travel upwards and downwards as the rear axle cycles. You can differentiate driver and passenger side frame mounts by the angle of the bushing face. The bushing face should be facing downwards towards the rear axle when installed.
We recommend clamping the frame mount to the frame and drilling your 7/16" holes directly through the bracket to ensure they line up correctly. Another option is to use a transfer punch and mark your holes before removing the bracket and then drilling.
If you have a weld on mount, begin sanding your frame and welding the mount directly to your frame. Paint afterwards to prevent corrosion. Skip ahead to Step 8 once done.
Drill 8 size 7/16" holes in the frame where you marked or through the frame mount itself. We recommend starting at 1/4" and stepping up in drill bit size. Asto Turbo Step TS29 drill bits work great as well. Clean up the holes once drilled and apply paint to the frame to prevent corrosion.
If you have a boxed frame, use the piano wire and 3/8" tab bolt to secure the frame mount to the frame. We have a detailed video showing how to use the tab bolts and pull wire here. Fish the wire through the hole in the S&B bracket, then the hole in the frame, and then out of the frame. Push the wire through the hole in the tab bolt and bend it slightly so it can't pull through. Next, wrap the wire around every thread of the tab bolt.
Pull the wire and bolt through the frame and into the bracket. Unwrap the wire from the thread of the tab bolt and cut it as close to the base of the threads as possible.
Install the 3/8" washers and nuts onto the tab bolts and torque all 3/8" hardware to 33 lb-ft. You can also install the S&B logo with the provided #10-24 allen screws and nuts and a 1/8" allen wrench. Your frame mount is now installed. Repeat the exact process on the passenger side.
Bolt the rear traction bar sections loosely into the under axle mounts using the 1/2" bolts, 1/2" washers and 1/2" nuts. Let the bar rest on the ground. The gusset faces the ground and the bars are identical between Driver and Passenger side. Install the S&B logo plates on the outside of each bar once installed using the #10-24 screws and nuts and an 1/8" allen wrench.
Locate the large 7/8" bolts, 7/8" washers, urethane bushings and o-rings which will be installed in the frame mount. The o-rings can be pressed into the o-ring grooves on the frame mount or installed on the bushings prior to installation in the frame mount. The order of parts starting from the front of the truck is 7/8" bolt, 7/8" washer, small urethane bushing, o-ring, frame mount, o ring, large urethane bushing.
Install the bolt, washer, small bushing and o-ring into the front section of the frame mount.
Install the large bushing and o-ring into the rear section of the frame mount.
Prepare the aluminum traction bar couplers by inserting 2 of the smaller o-rings and 1 of the larger o-rings into the o-ring grooves on each coupler.
Slide the traction bar coupler over the front traction bar section. Be extremely careful when sliding it onto the traction bar as we do not want to scratch the powdercoat. The o-rings inside the coupler should prevent any scratching from occurring but it is still good practice to not slide it on further than necessary. Face the large hole in the coupler towards the outside of the truck.
Slide the front bar section into the rear bar section. Only slide it in as far as necessary for it to be installed. Sliding it too far into the rear bar section will scratch the powdercoat and ruin the front bar. There is a 1" buffer zone hidden inside the coupler. Press the face of the front bar up to the large bushing in the frame mount.
Install the large 7/8" bolt and tighten with an impact wrench until tight. Grab the front bar section with your hand to stop it from spinning. We will torque this later but need the bushings tight before continuing on with the next step in the install. It must be tightened initially with an impact or it will spin at this step.
Make sure the truck is on the ground and at ride height before proceeding. Using a 1/4" drill bit, drill the Coupler Lock holes through the pilot hole in the rear bar section. Drill each hole from the outside in and not in one shot to be sure the holes line up with the coupler. It is critical to get these holes drilled in a precise manner. Next, use a 3/8" drill bit to open the holes up. Then, use a 1/2" bit to open the holes up once again. Make sure all holes are drilled from the outside in. Finally, use a 5/8" drill bit to ONLY open the OUTSIDE hole. The INSIDE hole must be 1/2".
If you have to take the bar off the truck to drill due to lack of clearance, you can do this. Drill the 1/4" outside hole and sharpie the small tube where it meets the big tube. Also, measure the bar length. When the bar is off, put a drill bit in the hole you already drilled before moving to drill the other side.
Deburr the holes to prevent damage to the o-rings and apply paint to prevent corrosion once the 5/8" and 1/2" holes are drilled. Then, slide the coupler over the rear bar section with the larger coupler hole facing the outside of the truck and being on the same side as the 5/8" hole. You can use silicone lube or a grease to help the coupler slide if needed.
Install the 12 point stainless flange bolt and the chromoly crush sleeve through the large hole in the outside of the coupler and traction bars. You can lightly tap the bolt and sleeve into place. The sleeve acts as a compression limiter for the bolt and helps clamp the entire assembly together.
Install the 1/2" nut and 1/2" washer on the inside of the bar. Torque to 100lb-ft using to clamp the bar in place and lock it together.
Go back and torque the 7/8" bolt in the front of the bar to 125 lb-ft so the threads are bottomed against the shank of the bolt. The bolt should stop turning. Repeat the entire process with the passenger bar. If you have any problems with your install, contact us immediately. No problem is too small. We have seen a lot of traction bar installs and can help walk you through any issue you face.
ATTENTION!
After you install traction bars on your vehicle, you must use caution when using a 2 post vehicle lift. If you take your vehicle to a shop to have it worked on, you should warn them. If you incorrectly lift your vehicle with traction bars installed, YOU COULD BEND THE BARS if the lift arms are set up incorrectly. The bars might clear the lift arms before you pick up the truck but as the suspension drops away from the truck the bars get closer to the lift arms. Traction bars are designed to take the force from the truck, they are not designed to withstand vertical force that is applied when lifting a vehicle. S&B is not responsible for bars bent with a lift but we do sell replacement front bar section kits to replace your bent bars.
