Install Instructions for 76-1012

With the ignition switched off and the parking brake set, disconnect the negative battery cables on both batteries. Disconnect the negative battery cable on the passenger side battery. Isolate the cable terminal from the battery by covering it with a rubber glove or other electrical insulating material.

Note: Failure to disconnect the battery for 2 hours may cause the CEL to illuminate upon completion of the installation and subsequent operation. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!

Tools Required: 8mm Socket/Wrench

Disconnect the negative battery cable on the driver side battery. Isolate the cable terminal from the battery by covering it with a rubber glove or other electrical insulating material.

Note: Failure to disconnect the battery for 2 hours may cause the CEL to illuminate upon completion of the installation and subsequent operation. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!

Tools Required: 10mm Socket/Wrench

Remove the bolts securing the engine cover.

Tools Required: 8mm Socket/Wrench

Remove the engine oil dipstick and then remove the engine cover.

Replace the engine oil dipstick

Disconnect the wire harness connector from the EGR temperature sensor located on the EGR crossover tube. To disconnect the harness connector, first slide to release the red locking tab, then depress the retaining tab and remove the connector from the sensor.

Remove the push rivet harness retaining clip from the intake elbow.

Tools Required: Panel Popper / Push Rivet Tool

Remove the nut and T-bolt from the driver side V-band clamp on the EGR crossover tube.

Tools Required: 11mm Deep Socket/Wrench

Remove the bolt holding down the EGR crossover tube bracket.

Tools Required: 8mm Socket/Wrench, 6” extension, ¼” Drive Universal Joint.

Carefully open and move both V-band clamps away from the EGR crossover tube flanges being careful not to let the gaskets fall from either end of the EGR crossover tube.

Note that the passenger side flange on the EGR crossover tube has a flat sealing surface and a flat metal gasket. Keep the gasket for re-use later.

Note that the driver side flange on the EGR crossover tube has a conical sealing surface and a composite gasket. Keep the gasket for re-use later.

Remove the P-clamp from the EGR crossover tube.

Remove the wire harness retainer from the engine oil dipstick bracket threaded stud.

Tools Required: Panel Popper

Remove the EGR temperature connector retainer from the engine oil dipstick bracket threaded stud.

Tools Required: Panel Popper

Disconnect the wire harness connector from the EGR valve by depressing the retaining tab and removing the connector.

Disconnect the wire harness connector from the TMAP sensor by depressing the retaining tab and removing the connector.

Disconnect the throttle valve connector under the intake elbow by sliding the locking tab over and depressing the main tab.

Here is a view of the connector once removed so you can see how the locking tab functions.

Remove the wire harness retaining clip from the intake elbow

Tools Required: Panel Popper Tool

Loosen the Charge Air Cooler (CAC) hose clamp attached to the intake throttle. 

Tools Required: 11mm Deep Socket/Wrench, 6” socket extension

Remove the bolt securing the engine oil dipstick tube.

Tools Required: 10mm Socket/Wrench, 6” socket extension

Remove the 4 bolts holding the EGR valve onto the intake manifold. This is easiest to do when the elbow is still installed in the truck.

Tools Required: 10mm socket

Remove the EGR Valve from the vehicle. You can discard the old gaskets as we provide new OEM Cummins gaskets for the EGR Valve.

Remove the (6) bolts holding the intake elbow to the intake manifold.

Tools Required: 10mm Socket/Wrench, 10” Wobble Socket Extension, U-joint Adapter

Remove the intake elbow from the intake manifold and twist the elbow loose from the CAC hose. 

Mask the opening to the intake manifold and the CAC hose to prevent anything from falling in either location.

Locate the wire harness bulkhead by the driver side firewall and remove the wire harness retainer.

Tools Required: Panel Popper

Remove the wire harness retaining clip from the stud at the rear of the valve cover.

Tools Required: Panel Popper

Remove the wire harness retaining clip from the stud at the rear of the valve cover.

Tools Required: Panel Popper

Remove the wire harness retaining clip from the stud at the side of the valve cover.

Tools Required: Panel Popper

Disconnect the wire harness connector from the crankcase pressure sensor 2 located on the passenger side of the crankcase breather cover. To disconnect the harness connector, first slide to release the red locking tab, then depress the retaining tab and remove the connector from the sensor.

Disconnect the wire harness connector from the Exhaust Side EGR Actuator located top of the EGR cooler. Slide the black locking tab backwards then depress the tab to remove the connector.

Disconnect the wire harness connector from the green connector located above the exhaust manifold. Slide the green locking tab out then depress the tab to remove the connector.

Disconnect the wire harness connector from the crankcase pressure sensor 1 located on the driver side of the crankcase breather cover. To disconnect the harness connector, first slide to release the red locking tab, then depress the retaining tab and remove the connector from the sensor.

Press the tab to unlock the latch, then rotate the latch to unlock and separate the main harness bulkhead connector.

Remove the circular wire harness clips that attach the wire harness to the dipstick tube. 

Tools Required: Pick to separate the circular clip.

Remove the front crank case oil drain. You can use a pick or other small tool to pry the rubber coupler free from the barb.

Remove the rear crank case oil drain. You can use a pick or other small tool to pry the rubber coupler free from the barb.

Use a 3/4" socket to remove the rear crankcase oil drain tube barb.

Tools Required: 3/4" Deep Socket

Here is what the barb looks like once removed.

Carefully remove the foam sound deadening from the fuel rail. It should release if all wires have been disconnected. Do not pull hard and pay attention to wires to make sure you do not damage any of the wire harness.

Unplug the forward injector harness plug. Press the black tab and pull upwards. You can use a pick from the bottom to release the tab as well if it will not release.

Unplug the rear injector harness plug. Press the black tab and pull upwards. You can use a pick from the bottom to release the tab as well if it will not release.

Remove the temp sensor connector at the intake manifold cover. Slide the red locking tab over then depress the tab to remove the connector.

Unplug the connector from the top of the fuel rail. Slide the locking tab backwards then depress the tab to release it.

Remove the retaining clip from the grid heater power harness. You may need a pick to separate the retaining clip.

Tools Required: Pick

Remove the rear retaining clip between the two harnesses. It is located right above the rear dipstick bracket. You may need a pick to separate it.

Tools Required: Pick

Carefully route the engine harness under the dipstick tube and lay it on the driver side fender to allow for better access to the fuel rail.

Remove the harness push rivet here from the dipstick bracket at the rear of the fuel rail.

Tools Required: Panel Popper

Prior to removing the injector lines, place a rag or masking tape over the grid heater to prevent dirt from entering the intake manifold. Wipe down all of the injector lines at the fuel rail and cylinder head. We do not want any dirt to enter the injectors or fuel rail when removing the lines. These components are extremely sensitive to contamination and repairs are very costly. Next, use a permanent marker or paint pen to draw a line between each injector adapter nut and the cylinder head. It is very important that the adapter nuts do not spin when loosening and retorquing the injector lines. The line you draw will allow you to quickly see if the adapter shifts in the cylinder head. Do this on all 6 injector lines.

Tool Required: Permanent Marker

Remove each injector line from the truck. Start by loosening the cylinder head side by placing a 15/16" wrench on the adapter and a 3/4" wrench on the injector line nut. Then, use the 3/4" wrench on the fuel rail side to remove the line completely. Each line is numbered on the cylinder head side so you do not need to label them. We provide a new cylinder 1 fuel line that gives more clearance for our intake elbow. You may not be able to reach the cylinder head side nut on cylinder 6. You can just remove the nut at the fuel rail side only and lightly pry upwards on the fuel line to release the fuel rail. You can also use a 3/4" or 19mm fuel line socket to remove some of these lines. This is one of the hardest steps in the install. Please give us a call or refer to our install video if you have any questions. 

Tools Required: 3/4" & 15/16" Wrench, 3/4" Fuel Line Socket

Remove the fuel rail side nut and then remove the fuel line. Follow the same procedure all the way back to Cylinder 6.

Install the provided red plugs to each injector adapter and fuel rail port as you remove the fuel lines from the truck.

Remove the grid heater electrical harness by unscrewing the captured nut. This will give you more room to access the rest of the fuel lines.

Tool Required: 10mm socket

Continue to work backwards removing each line. In the picture attached here you can see Line #1-5 have been removed and capped. Line 6 is loose and slightly above the manifold. We removed the dipstick tube bracket to give us more clearance on the injector nuts. Be extremely careful with the dipstick if you remove this bracket as the seal at the bottom of the dipstick tube can break and cause a severe oil leak if the tube is moved too much.  

Use a 3/4" wrench to loosen the rail feed line at the fuel rail.

Tools Required: 3/4" Wrench

Loosen the feed line at the fuel pump side with a 3/4" wrench. The fuel feed line is labeled at the fuel rail side so you do not need to mark it. 

Tools Required: 3/4" Wrench.

Use a 17mm socket to remove the banjo bolt for the fuel rail return. Carefully remove the bolt ensuring you do not lose the sealing washers from above or below the fitting.

Tools Required: 17mm Socket

Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the fuel rail in. Do not remove the rail yet as there is one more connector at the rear of the rail for the fuel pressure regulator.

Tools Required: 10mm Socket

Rotate the fuel rail slightly to expose the connector at the rear. Disconnect the connector from the fuel rail. The tab to depress is on the rear side of the connector so it can be difficult to access.

Remove the fuel rail from the truck and set it aside.

Remove the remaining 5 x 10mm bolts from the intake plate. 

Tools Required: 10mm Socket

Remove the entire intake plate from the truck. Set it aside as we will remove the temperature sensor from the plate. 

Remove the metal gasket from that sealed the intake plate to the cylinder head. Here is a picture of what it should look like with the gasket removed. Clean any old gasket material off the cylinder head.

Thoroughly vacuum the intake area to ensure there is no dirt or debris in the intake. Any dirt or debris will immediately enter the combustion chamber if it is not cleaned out at this step. We recommend using a shop vac with an adapter to 1" so you can get the tighter areas. Once clean, apply masking tape to the intake so dirt does not enter while we prepare the S&B elbow for install. This is a great stopping point if you want to take a break during the install.

Use a 25mm or 1" wrench to remove the Intake Air Temperature Sensor from the OEM intake cover plate. Pay attention to the position of the intake air heater as we will install it in the same location on the S&B Grid Heater Delete Plate.

Tools Required: 25mm or 1" Wrench

Install the temperature sensor into the S&B grid heater delete plate (Item #3) and torque to 89 in-lbs. Ensure you install the sensor in the same location you removed it from.

Tools Required:25mm Socket or 1" Socket and Torque Wrench

Install the S&B Provided aluminum plug (Item #12) into the unused hole with the o-ring (Item #13) Torque to 89 in-lb. 

Tools Required:12mm Ratchet & Torque Wrench

Locate the new OEM intake gasket (Item #4) and remove it from the packaging. The part number on the tab should be facing upwards and towards the rear of the vehicle. Place the assembled grid heater delete plate and gasket into the truck. You should tape over the intake elbow opening with masking tape to ensure no dirt or debris falls into the intake during the next steps.

Reinstall the 5 x 10 mm bolts in the S&B grid heater delete plate. The 4 shorter bolts go in the 4 holes flush with the rest of the plate. The 1 longer bolt will go in the forward most raised boss of the two driver bosses. Do not reinstall any of the bolts that hold the fuel rail down yet. Torque all 5 of these bolts to 18 ft-lbs working from the middle of the plate to the outside to not warp the plate.

Tools Required: 10mm socket & Torque Wrench

Place the fuel rail back in the truck. Rest it on the raised bosses and reconnect the fuel pressure regulator at the rear of the rail. 

Reinstall the 3 fuel rail bolts. These are the longer 10mm bolts you removed earlier. You can hold off on reinstalling the middle bolt with the dipstick mounting bracket if it helps you get more clearance to torque the injector lines and then reinstall this bolt after the lines are all installed. Torque all three bolts to 18 ft-lbs.

Tools Required: 10mm socket and Torque Wrench

Starting at the rear of the rail, reinstall the banjo bolt for the return line with the sealing washers on the bottom and top side of the fitting. Be extremely careful to not drop the banjo bolt. Use a 17mm socket and torque the banjo bolt to 18 ft-lbs. Next, line up the fuel rail side injector line nut on line #6 and tighten it by hand. Torque to 41 ft lbs. If you fully removed the #6 injector line, thread it back in on both the cylinder head and rail side by hand prior to torquing. Always torque the cylinder head side first and the rail side second. Use a backer wrench and check the lines you drew with permanent marker to ensure the adapter nut does not spin when torquing. Make sure the nut is fully seated on both sides before torquing. We recommend using a fuel line socket like shown here to torque them properly.

Tools Required: 17mm socket, 19mm or 3/4" fuel line socket, Torque Wrench

Continue to work your way forwards reinstalling injector lines. Cylinder 5, 4, and 3 will be done next. Follow the labels on the cylinder side of each line. Tighten both sides fully by hand before torquing each line. Then torque to 41 ft-lbs at the cylinder side before torquing the rail side. Use a backer wrench on the adapter nut when able and watch the lines to ensure the adapter does not move in the head. Once you finish installing cylinder 3 line, you can reinstall the dipstick bracket and torque that bolt to 18 ft lbs.

Tools Required: 3/4" or 19mm fuel line socket, Torque Wrench, 10mm Socket

Dipstick Bracket Shown here

Continue the fuel line installation process for cylinders #2 & #1. Cylinder #1 will use the new S&B provided high clearance fuel line (Part #5) to allow room for the S&B intake elbow to install. Torque both following the same procedure as the other lines.

Tools Required: 19mm or 3/4" Fuel Line Socket, Torque Wrench.

Reinstall the rail feed line. Torque both sides to 41 ft-lbs once it is fully threaded by hand. 

Tools Required: 3/4" or 19mm Fuel Line Socket, Torque Wrench

Reinstall the air temperature connector at the rear of the S&B grid heater delete plate. Slide the locking tab over once connected.

Reinstall the factory sound deadening foam. We recommend removing a small rectangular chunk of foam from where the foam contacts the S&B cylinder #1 fuel line. Our line is slightly taller than the OEM line so the small cut will allow the foam piece to sit fully flush. 

Tools Required: Razor Knife

Start snaking the main harness back into place. It will rest between the dipstick tube and the engine. You can reconnect the circle connectors that attached to the dipstick tube. You will next feed it up and over the valve cover and can align the retainers with the two studs on the rear of the breather cover. Do not push these completely onto the studs yet as we will remove this breather cover later on. Start reconnecting your plugs with the fuel rail pressure sensor first. Click it in then slide the locking tab back into place.

Reconnect the driver side CCV pressure sensor. Slide the locking tab back in place once connected.

Reconnect the two sensors next to the EGR valve. Slide the locking tab on both into place once reconnected.

Reconnect the passenger side CCV connector and slide the locking tab back into place once connected.

Reinstall the CCV drain tube port we removed earlier. Use a 3/4" socket or 19mm to tighten it. It should torqued slightly beyond hand tight. 

Tools Required: 19mm or 3/4" Socket

Reinstall the rear injector harness plug. There is no locking tab on this connector.

Reinstall the front injector harness plug. It will route over top of the S&B cylinder #1 line.

Reconnect the main harness bulkhead connector and push the push rivet back into the firewall.

Reinstall the front CCV drain hose. It gets routed between the engine block and harness and underneath the dipstick tube. 

Reinstall the rear CCV drain. The rear has less obstacles and is straightforward to route. It will go under the dipstick tube as well and back onto the barb we just reinstalled.

Remove the 4 x 10mm bolts holding the throttle valve to the OEM intake elbow. You can discard the OEM gasket.

Tools Required: 10mm Socket

Locate the new OEM gasket (Item #23) and remove it from the packaging. Install the gasket between the throttle valve and the S&B Intake Elbow (Item #1) with the text facing the Intake Elbow. Reinstall the 4 x 10mm bolts and torque to 89 in lbs in a crossing pattern.

Tools Required:10mm Socket & Torque Wrench.

Use a T15 and remove the torx screw to remove the TMAP sensor from the OEM Intake elbow. Wiggle it until it is free and carefully remove it.

Tools Required: T15 Torx Driver

Install the TMAP sensor in the S&B Intake Elbow. Reuse the factory screw and use a T15 driver to install it snug.

Tools Required: T15 Torx Driver

Install the second provided plug (Item #10) with the o-ring (Item #11) into the S&B intake elbow. Torque to 89 in lbs with a 12mm socket

Tools Required: 12mm Socket & Torque Wrench

Locate the new OEM gasket (Item #2). Find the "Front" Marking. This will face forwards and upwards. All of the holes on the throttle valve side are set up to catch the bolt and hold the gasket in place. Use 2 of the long bolts (Item #7) with washers (Item #6) and 1 of the 3 shorter bolts (Item #8) with NO WASHER on the throttle valve side of the intake elbow to install the gasket and hold it in place. Apply blue loctite to all 3 bolts.

Remove your masking tape over the Intake Elbow opening and place the S&B Intake Elbow in the truck. Start threading the two longer bolts into place to hold the elbow in position. 

Install the rest of the intake elbow bolts and start them all by hand. The engine side of the intake elbow uses 2 of the medium-length bolts (Item #8) and washers (Item #6) on the corners and one of the short bolts (Item #9) with a washer (Item #6) in the middle position. You may need to remove the CCV oil drain to access the passenger rear corner bolt. Start all the bolts by hand. You will access the middle bolt on the driver side by going through the intake air heater port on the top of the intake elbow. I recommend using a grabber/claw tool or taping the bolts to your hex bit to get them started.

Tools Required: 6mm Hex Bit Socket

Torque all 6 Intake Elbow bolts to 18 ft lbs. Start at the middle two bolts and work outside in a crossing pattern. 

Tools Required: 6mm Hex Bit Socket, Torque Wrench

Locate the dipstick relocation bracket (Item #24), the supplied bolts (Item #25), and nut (Item #26) and mount it to the S&B Intake Elbow. Then mount the dipstick tube to the bracket using the nut and bolt. Torque to 89 inch lbs with a 13mm socket.

Tools Required: 13mm Socket & Wrench, Torque Wrench

Intake Air Heater Installation. You may skip the following steps if you are in a warm climate and do not want to run an Intake Air Heater. Simply Install the supplied plug (Item #10) and o-ring (Item #11) and torque to 89 in lbs if you choose to not run the Intake Air Heater. You must remove the power harness and terminate the end in a careful manner so it is completely shielded and cannot short. You will need to have aftermarket tuning to avoid a check engine light that is present after removing the heater. 

Install the Intake Air Heater (Item #15) and the supplied brass gasket (Item #14) into the S&B Intake Elbow. Tighten it snug until the brass gasket is seated, it does not need to be over torqued. Install one of the two flange nuts (Item #16) loosely onto the stud with the flange facing up.

Tools Required: 1" Wrench

Install the S&B harness extension (Item #17) with the provided bolt (Item #19). Torque to 89 in lbs with a 10mm socket.

Tools Required: 10mm Socket & Torque Wrench

Slide one of provided heat shrink pieces (Item #20) over the bolt and nut and heat with a heat gun until it completely shrinks. Ensure it is touching both the existing piece of heatshrink on the OEM harness and on the S&B extension harness. 

Tools Required: Heat Gun

Install a second layer of heat shrink tubing (Item #20) over top of the previous layer. Heat with a heat gun to shrink.

Tools Required: Heat Gun

Install the provided wire loom/chafe protection (Item #21) onto the exposed section of wire and heat with a heat gun to shrink to fit. It should cover all of the previous heat shrink we applied as well as the red extension cable we installed.

Tools Required: Heat Gun

Install the clip on the grid heater harness back onto the dipstick tube and route the harness around and back to the intake air heater we previously installed.

Install the Rubber Elbow Boot (Item #18) onto the grid heater harness which will protect the connection at the intake air heater. Next, apply loctite to the stud on the intake air heater and place the ring terminal onto the intake air heater. Install the second flange nut (Item #16) with the flange facing downwards and torque to 35 in lbs while using an open end wrench to hold the lower flange nut so the stud does not twist. Slide the boot over the connection once torqued.

Tools Required: 8mm Socket, Open End Wrench and Torque Wrench

Reinstall the CAC boot onto the S&B Intake Elbow. Line the t-bolt clamp up and torque to 96 in lbs with an 11mm socket.

Tools Required: 11mm Deep Socket, Torque Wrench

Reconnect the MAP sensor on the Intake elbow. Slide the locking tab over once connected.

Reinstall the throttle valve connector. Slide the locking tab over once installed. It is on the bottom side of the intake elbow by the intercooler boot.

Locate the two new OEM EGR valve gaskets (Item #22) and place them on top of the S&B Intake Elbow

Reinstall the EGR Valve onto the S&B Intake Elbow with the OEM bolts. Torque all 4 bolts to 18 ft lbs in a crossing pattern with a 10mm socket.

Tools Required: 10mm Socket and Torque Wrench

Use an 8mm wrench or socket and remove the 8 x 8mm bolts holding on the CCV Filter cover. A ratcheting wrench or deep swivel socket will make the rear two much easier to get to.

Tools Required: 8mm deep socket, 8mm wrench.

Remove the 2 x 10mm bolts holding down the engine cover bracket and remove the engine cover bracket from the truck. You can discard these bolts.

Tools Required: 10mm Socket

Reinstall the 8 x 8mm bolts to the CCV filter housing. You can push the two harness retaining clips onto the two rear studs after reinstalling them.

Tools Required: 8mm Socket & 8mm Wrench

Reinstall the EGR Crossover tube with the OEM gaskets you removed. Reinstall both t-bolt clamps and torque to 89 in lbs.

Tools Required: 11mm Deep Socket, Torque Wrench.

Install the EGR valve harness extension onto the EGR valve and the wire harness. Slide both locking tabs once connected. Use the provided zip ties to attach the extension to the rest of the harness.

Reconnect the EGR Crossover tube sensor connector. We routed it under the EGR valve and towards the rear of the truck. Use the provided zip ties to attach the harness to the rest of the harnesses. Slide the locking tab once connected.

Reinstall the driver and passenger negative battery terminals. Torque to 80 in lbs with a 10mm and 8mm socket.

Tools Required: 8mm Deep Socket, 10mm Deep Socket & Torque Wrench

Your installation is complete. Please give us a call at 909.947.0015 or email us at customerservice@sbfilters.com if you have any questions during the install. We recommend boost leak testing the system to check for boost leaks. A Check Engine Light after install accompanied by a P0299 Underboost Code is also indicative a boost leak. Check all your connections and ensure your CAC boot clamps are still tight.